Road Tripping Northern Thailand Style

Well as I mentioned in the last post we were hiring a little 4WD for 5 days to explore North Western Thailand. We had our little wee beat up Suzuki Carriban delivered to us last Wednesday morning. It has been a few action packed days since then. 4 to be exact. Before we left we farewelled Claudia & Damien as they too were leaving for more Northern pastures on their bikes. We will hopefully meet up again soon. Picture of the 4 of us at the Guest House we were staying in at Chiang Mai.

The first few mins of driving were the most nerve wracking. We had an old beat up car which idles a bit slowly and has the worst steering lock ever and hectic busy city streets to deal with. We also had to fill up. Still all went well and we were on our way to see the Mae Ye Waterfall. A lovely terraced (30 something terraces) waterfall in Doi Inthanon National Park. Of interest is that you pay to enter all the National Parks in Thailand I have come across. These falls were very tranquil and must present a very different site in the monsoon season.

It was about lunctime now and we headed deeper into Doi Inthanon NP. Doi (= mountain) Inthanon is the highest peak in Thailand (2600m). One thing I want to mention is that while almost all the roads we have travelled are paved or made of concrete slabs they are often bumpy and full of potholes. They are also very steep and winding. They do not seem to stick to valley floors like many roads in NZ. They go up to a ridge then down time and time again. Millions of hairpins also, much steeper that ones in NZ. After visiting the Stupas (kinda temples) very high on Doi Inthanon (pronouched without the 'h') we drove to the top and did a nice nature walk.

The rest of the day was rushed. We wanted to get to Mae Hong Son but there was no chance. We got to Khun Yuan well after dark found a placeto crash and got some lovely dinner at someones house/restaurant (a very common site for those who live on the sides of main roads). This town was occupied by the Japaneses during WWII and many stayed here to live. The last surviving Japanese solider died in 2000.

The next day we headed straight to Mae Hong Son. A lovely wee town (9000 people). We stopped for gas and headed north (we were to return to stay that evening). Our plans were to head to a KMT village down some backroads called Mae Awe. It is a Chinese based settlement right near the border of Myanmar. There were a few armed solider checkpoints to pass through. On the way we stopped at yet another nice waterfall. You could buy fish food at the top of the walk. It was a good thing we did. Many happy carp were waiting to see us, well just be feed actually. There were some real big ones in there.

The village was also great. The food we had for lunch was distinctly different than the Thai food we were getting use too. One thing we have noticed is that the people are very resourceful in many ways. One is trying to get money off tourists. Even very remote places always seem to have people selling food/crafts on the roadside. Quite amazing I must say, especailly when upi are miles form nowhere. There are few places not truly effected by western people/culture though all generally are extremely happy to see us (sometimes bewildered, especially school children). That evening we stayed at Mae Hong Son and checked out the markets around the town lake. (see pic below)

On the 3rd day of the road trip I managed to coerce Bridget into letting us go off road with the Suzu. We were headed for yet another waterfall (Susu Falls) through some dense jungle, through 3 river crossings and some steep hills (you would have loved this Dad, 1 gear low range and still struggling a little). It was 8kms of 4wd heaven. We got to the end and the waterfalls were not that impressive. So much so I keep walking down the track (well a slight thinning of the jungle undergrowth) thinking bigger ones were ahead. I really needed a machete but keep at it. I came across 8 guys who were not impressed to see me. I think it was their patch for certain types of plants. I felt a bit worried and got out the remotest area I have been real fast. The fire ants were everywhere and quiet freaky really.

This was a great day. After more ks and more big hills we got to to the Thum Lot cave. 300m long, 50m or so wide with lots of passages. You needed to hire a guide with a lantern and a bamboo raft. You could not explore by yourself. I was sceptical yet in the end it was a very good $12 spent. The raft was great, a traditional bamboo raft. It was only knee deep though. The stalagmites, tights, columns and other cave associated structures were lovely and very large generally. There were also 4 coffins over 1000yrs old way up high in some of the shafts as well as a cave drawing 2-3000yrs old. I did not get good pics in the cave since I did not have time to setup being a guided tour and all. Below is a pic to the exit of the cave with a bamboo dam in place much to my amusement. Without the dam the river would have been only ankle deep and the bamboo raft drivers without a job and workout a way to get 400B of the tourists.

Today we are to be in Pai for our 2nd night. We came here after the caving. It is a funny yet hip wee place full of alternatives and a blending of western and thai and other cultures (many muslims). It shows in the food available and the likes of the availability of mystic services. They do some mean pineapple pancakes and I have fallen in love with fruit shakes. These are blended fresh fruit and ice together and taste supe yummy. In fact I will need to go get another after writing this post.

Today we just relaxed, slept in a little and then headed out for our 2hr elephant ride. What can I say. It was very touristy but also very authentic up here compared to the real tourist havens like Bangkok and Phuket. 2hrs siting bareback on the back of a 3.5tonne sheila with its backbone trying to smash you nether-regions to bits is an experience one way or another. I loved it but will not do it again if ya know what I mean. All should experience it though. The video of it will be something to behold. Especially when I was playing with it in the river. It threw me off like a dog shaking off a flea. Below is a pic of a smaller jumbo I was feeding. They eat 200kgs per day.

Plan tonight (it is 6.30pm) is to get a Thai massage. I have not had one yet, then some dinner. Maybe watch a band somewhere. Tomorrow we sight see our way back to Chiang Mai. Stay a night. Catch a bus to Chiang Kong. Then head over the border to Laos. From there a slowboat will take us to Luang Prabang over 2 days.

Thoughts:

• Sorry about the length of the post (u don't need to read it). Its just as much for me as it is for you :-)


• Showers. There appears to be no hot water cylinders. All water is heated in an electrical box you turn on in the bathroom. All shower heads are detectable.


• Driving. People are very patient and still crazy. Never a hint of road rage and no crashes seen yet.


• Many more Thai tourists than Western tourists. Especially in more remote areas we really are the odd ones out.


• Apparently they all learn English at school. You would not think so though as many cannot speak a word of it.


• Very annoying that many phrases are said differently on a gender basis. Females have the easier time. I think they have often laughed at me speaking in the female tongue :-)

A final pic showing a typical road we have been driving on.

Cheers. Kurt & Bridget